Trains

Trains are a fantastic method of travelling fast to any major hub. It also seems to be THE place to discuss your love life very loudly on the phone.

            “Yeah.” Said a very rough female voice, a strange mix between cockney and a Liverpool accent.  “He said her an inbox on Facebook and she replied what a bitch.”

            Her child just gazed unassumingly out of the window; I assumed he was tired of listening to his mothers failed love life.

            “No, he also poked Liz. And I was well mad at him.”

            The boy looked up at her. The exasperated expression on his face told me all I needed to know. I have done that look too many times before.

            He resumed his bored gaze out of the window, his iPhone sat disused in front of him. Clearly the technology could not take away his boredom. This did make me start to think about how slowly we are all being dragged into this technology-obsessed world. I, don’t get me wrong, love tech. I find it so useful, being able to communicate across thousands of miles instantly. Being able to stream video calls and see long lost relatives. Fantastic.

            Its social networking which gets my goat. Any way. As I sat watching these two completely differing personalities. I looked out of the window for a brief rest bite from the onslaught of “He is” and “He said”. Seeing the Cumbria landscape sprawled out with tall, dark and ominous mountains fringing the present green and newly ploughed fields. I was struck at how the child must be feeling about it. Being an active child in the outdoors I was always wanting to go out side and find snails and such. I wondered if perhaps the child was thinking the same. Even if it was only to escape his mothers infernal chatter about how “Her man keeps cheating on her.”

            I have had other more pleasant and interesting journeys, along the same route from London Euston to Carlisle. 3 elderly people sat around a table with you makes for very interesting conversations. One of them being a gardener for most of her small village in Essex. The second being a retired gentleman who used to work in accounts. The last did not revel her past occupation, but a younger lady piped up that her sister used to work for Springwatch. The conversation ranged from wildlife, to the person talking loudly on their phone, from the driver being late to the river the train passed over and all the way back round.

            The times where the conversation has been interesting and both parties have been willing to contribute to free flowing and stimulating topics make my train journeys. I have had several of these beautiful joining together of two or more strangers, these are sadly marred by the awful journeys like the one mentioned at the beginning. Even with all the wondrous country side just a glance away out of the window.

Chiang mai

            The hot black tarmac shimmered in the heat haze.

            The sweat dripping slowly down the faces of the competitors.

            The sun beating down on man and machine while then engine drone as they tick over. The riders fix their eyes on the lights, waiting for them to flip to green. All lined up perfectly on the white line, eager to get of the line first.

            The sound in the air is full of RPM.

A sudden bang of a back firing engine rings through the air. The bright sun glaring in the eyes of all of the riders, making it difficult to see the lights overhead. The lights flip from red to green. Hands move of breaks, feet tuck into bikes and engines roar into life as accelerators are twisted. The sound to such a crescendo, dulled slightly by the helmet, giving the illusion of starting a race.

Pulling gently away from a junction I though about having had three weeks in the jungle a week or so in town is a welcome relief.

National parks in Thailand are different than in the UK, they seem to be much more appreciated. The several near to my dwelling, for the week or so, are all connected but yet branched out like a strange kind of spider. I had only been on 2 rides on the back of a scooter so I was fairly confident that I could hang on. The roads are fine, easy riding. When they are slightly out of condition when they become nice and bumpy.  The ride was actually very fun even with my brain telling me that I would die. It was an adventure I wont be forgetting. Lizards and other insects seem to be thriving. Watching them scamper up and down trees and catching ants was as enjoyable as it sounds. Every now and then they would push them selves off the tree slightly and extent what I can only describe as a dewlap. This would be a beautiful yellow, which would flash exquisitely in the boring brown. The trees having no leaves meant that there were very few birds so it was more of an exploration of the park. The small river that flowed down the ravine and over the bounders creating this fantastic rapids and shallow watercourse. Usually I don’t enjoy mucking about in streams and over rocks like I did as a child. But for some reason I have had a change of heart, spending a good three quarters of an hour splashing and bouldering around. It was strange maybe I have become more open to doing activities, which I usually find aggravating and trivial. It might be the fact that I have been spending time with my cousin and his son has made me think about not being boring. I think more reflection on my time in Thailand will help me with that.

Temples become very similar after a couple of trips, however the local temple was very traditional and very still. Being so far out of a large city it made for a nice change, although the dogs which get left to their own devices seem to congregate at the temple. This can be intimidating as they can be aggressive. But after the monks shoo them away and tell you about their lives it makes you very aware about how they are treated. I mention this because the next mountain that we hurtled up to reach the top has several huge temples. Phuphing Palace is one of the famous temples in Chiang Mai, not making a stop into the palace as the views over the mountain ranges was the main reason for the trip up. Although on the trip up I spent most of it chuckling to my self as it is a particularly hilarious name.

Now a slightly touchy subject I suppose but it is strife across Thailand. The clubs. This is nothing new, nevertheless they are surrounded on the outside by beauties of the most exquisite magnificence. Although just like clubs there are good one and bad one. This is generally reflected in the women outside the clubs. I mean there also is the area that you are in which can give you a clue to what kind of “classy joint” you are going to. There is of course the obvious beer girls at most bars along with the hostess, All with the attraction of them selves serving you your beer. I have to say it is fantastic to have a beer in these pubs as you sit down to enjoy nice conversation and beautiful live music. It is so very easy to get through 4 or five large beers, simply as these women see that your glass is nearly empty and come and refill it, so you loose track of how much you actually drink. Which is fantastic. Just because the hours’ drift by in a haze of music and drink.

Back to the clubs, the clubs have seating areas out side for these stunning women to sit in their miniscule dresses, all in aid of attracting rich westerners or even the odd Japanese business group. Spending many a night sitting opposite these establishments eating fantastically cooked local food, having a good laugh trying to spot their next victim. Is a brilliant way to while away an evening. Although this activity is vey harsh, it can easily become fun if the beer girls continuity supply you with your beverages. Then of course there are the lady-boys, I am not scoffing at people life styles here I want to make that very clear. They often fool a lot of people, yes this includes women and they are sometimes even more beautiful than the real women of the town. These women I suppose would be like the men in drag here except this is another level. Hair, make up, bra, shaved legs, skinny, high voice and tiny dress showing off some times more than you want to see. Yes I did see a tiny bit of male private parts once, on what I thought was a woman.

It is easy to get confused in Thailand, but it is such a nice place I don’t think anywhere could really beat it. I was welcomed like part of the family in most occasions. I have to say I will be defiantly traveling back there at some stage. I cant wait it’s an adventure each time you go out side your front door.

Elephants

            Elephants should never have to have fake legs. In fact that goes for every animals, except for humans who try to kill one another when two leaders of the countries decide they don’t really like each other. We just bring it on our selves really. Here, at the World’s First Elephant Hospital, this unfortunate and sad truth is very real. There have been several victims of landmine explosions two of them are here as permanent residents. Both of them have glaring injuries. Mosha was 7 months old when she was following her mother in the jungle when she stepped on a land mine in Burma. The same happened to Motala, although she was just with her mahout, whom had a licence to log in that area, when she was 38 now she is 52. These elephants both lost the bottom half’s if their right and left front legs respectively. Motala was the first elephant here to receive an emergency amputation. Both of these elephants have been given the chance to live again. It may only be with three legs. The keepers here treat them with the highest respect I have ever seen from keepers.

I am incapable of being cynical or witty about this place. It would be impertinent to do so. Everything that has been built here has been for the welfare of the elephants. There is nothing like it. It is so very peaceful. Being built midst the trees the structures seemingly fuse into the leaves but offer protection from the rain and intense heat.  I have never seen a place to be as busy as this but yet have this still serenity to it. The ants that inhabit the walls, floors and trees are as busy as the workers. The only animals, which seem to take their time doing anything, are the geckos.

One experience, which will stick with me for a long time, while at the elephant hospital, was a tiny piece of surgery. Having been called to take photographs on an ill elephant called Boonmee, I wondered over casually as I didn’t want to run far to hot. The infirmary was not far from my room so I took my time. I had taken many pictures of this elephant before while she was receiving injections, so I was not too bothered about getting anything new as I had spent several hours with her already. Reaching the infirmary I saw one of the mahouts putting on a green protective gown. I thought this was the moment I had been waiting for, seeing some operation or something equally gory. Eagerly I started to change lenses to something small so I could capture the action. This is where I probably shouldn’t have been that enthusiastic as I had clearly missed the fact there was no sheets around to block off from any prying eyes. Reflecting on the situation I really should have noticed the lack of preparation for surgery and seen the lack of surgical instruments. Taking to the vet I found out that it was not surgical operation and that she was bloated. During this convocation, which had my full concentration, I missed the hose being filled with soap and it being lubricated. This along a long with the arm of the mahout had by now been lubricated to the satisfaction of the vet. The 5 or so keepers that were surrounding Boonmee, who all looked so casual, gently rubbing her side and comforting her, her mahout was at her trunk, and two more had her tail. This is where the wave of realisation crashed onto my shore of reality. Really with out warning the mahout with the hose stood on tiptoe and inserted his arm to the elephants (I am trying not to be explicit here) rear. I am not saying that that experience was at all bad. It was just very unexpected. I would like to point out that this was done under the supervision of a vet and was necessary for the animal. Having never really watched anything like this before I was more interested in what was going on than to take any pictures.

There are very few words, which I could use to sun up this hospital but all of then are good ones. I can see no ill will here. Only unadulterated intentions and driven people. I had always felt like conservation was boring and that it was for people whom were just a little bit reckless.  However, the owner of the hospital Soraida Salwala has built it up from nothing. As her passion and determination for saving an animal. Meeting her and talking to her you can see her determination. I could easily rattle off clichés at you to show how much she has provoked me. There is really nothing that can describe her, she is formidable and all the synonyms that go with it, and probably most important of all. Soraida is kind, no need for big fancy words. My conversations with her shall be a treasured experience.

First few days not in the Hospital

Thailand is as I remember it. Hot, humid and full of people. 

The cities are full of westerners trying to experience the real Thailand, by wearing fisherman trousers flip flops and t-shirts while staying in their 4 star resorts with pools and all the western luxuries you can imagine. Night markets are the same… but worse. Full of farangs, making the whole experience cheap and tacky. With stalls tightly packed together, the small avenues of free pavement are taken up by the mass of white people looking for their quick deals. Flip flops 25 baht (25p), sunglasses 80 baht (£1.75p) and here they are haggling over small prices but yet not haggling over their £50 designer underwear, which poke unceremoniously out from their very low rider trousers.

            Despite of all of this night markets do have an undeniable beauty to them. If you can find the right market in the right city you are greeted with strange and obscure objects. In one of these markets, full of only Thai people, had, hidden in the back a law office. Behind all the cloths, the singing fake birds and the canteen was a huge sign stating that it was indeed a law office. This surrounded by the canteen makes for a fantastic setting for a cheap meal. Looking at all the vendors selling the same combination of rice meat and noodles. Choosing one of these was not difficult as in all but 1 of the 5 had a seemed to have multitude of ants running around their food. Choosing the cleanest and ant free vender, and going for the least adventurous meal I could think of. Regrettably the ants had found their way into the cooking area and into the fried rice. Ants are not too bad to eat. It’s just a shame they weren’t part of the meal. It was nice despite the ants; the market beside the canteen was full of strange and weird meats. The oddest meat that I saw was and still is what looked like a huge Cumberland sausage, although upon asking what meat it was, it turned out to be buffalo or what she said was buffalo.

            The stalls slowly started to shift into a furniture market full of gold leaf furniture, Buddha’s and large what looked like mug trees. Beautiful craftsmanship. Far too many chairs which have been chiselled out of solid logs. The ornaments were even more sublime. Tiny little Buddha’s probably no bigger than a pack of cards. Wondering left and right to find something western. Finding nothing but pets for sale, I stopped and watched these puppies in cages. These puppies were young maybe about 8-9 months in actually very good condition. But it wasn’t the puppies, which caught my eye, having geese fully grown in tiny cages. It’s difficult to say how I felt because of the difference in culture.

             I suppose the strangest thing was these string domes, which had cockerels in, dotted around the floor these cockerels were circling and squaring up to each other. A strange sight, but strangely striking. These birds were in their best plumage, vibrant greens and blacks. Dashed with pure whites and bronze, with some mottled blues to. Beautiful birds. It’s a shame that they are kept in these domes; you can see them all over the country, dotted around the high way and in small villages. Watching these birds for a good few minutes my eyes got caught by some women tossing some strange white and orange things into the air. Curiosity though that I should investigate. 

              On closer scrutiny these were ant eggs being separated from the ants. By throwing them up in the air and catching them in a colander, allowing the eggs to be caught below on a blanket then separated into smaller plates. This works up until the point that the ants escape find the places and try and steal the eggs back. It is funny to watch as the venders try and catch then and regain their merchandise. They spent much time catching ants as they do trying to separate them out, I don’t think they appreciated my chuckling though as many started to harangue me with fast and loud Thai.

            Of course this is the start of the insect market. Strange insects peering up from vast tables of pre-cooked locust’s, crickets and strange fried caterpillars. Of course the biggest and most popular insects to eat are the water bugs. There are several which have been opened to show their ‘lucky’ eggs. There are thousands of these eggs. It looks like CSI, the guts of these insects slatted on the table, the legs at unnatural angles to the body, disturbing but normal for Thailand. Deciding to try and embrace the insect eating something, which I could probably get my head round, I bought some fried caterpillars hoping they would be like French fries. I have no idea what I was going to taste. Selecting the fried grub to be eaten. The caterpillars were strange easily eaten but because they were so small. Not really tasting like anything but having a strange soapy tang after finishing them.

Adventure time

Firstly a confession. Please forgive me for my words of sin. I hate travel. I love new places but the whole getting there I find a horrid experience. Full of stressful situations and miss timings. But unavoidable.

Right now I am sat in my small little room in FAE's Elephant Hospital. It is nice and warm and my short has pretty much stuck to my back and front. Deodorant is pretty much useless and just a western facade I must keep up with. The room comprises of a bed a desk and 3 single and small cabinets. Simple and all that I need. I have no need for lavish room and fancy beds. Straw on the floor is more than enough for me at this point in time. The bird list may remain small for now I have seen at least 3 geckos scuttling down behind my bed as I open the door.

My first tour of the place was quick with many elephant and human names to remember. I fear my little grey cells will not cope with the task. Being a Farang I am sure that I will be brushed down quickly by the staff. Telling me where and when I can and cant be. None of this bothers me in the slightest.

I can not wait until I start in ernest tomorrow.

The rain weeks.

So my flat started leaking again this week. Its not the first time it has happened. If you remember the last time the rain was pummeling your face like Mike Tyson, then this was the first time the flat decided to abandon its usual guard. Instead opting for more aquatic pastime and showering me lightly with water.

With this new aquatic abode I still found a few days to pop out and have a few pleasant walks around the the Caldew have made the weeks a bit more bearable.

With the rain giving us much of our news it also played upon me to. I have recently bought my self a new toy. A beautiful 10 stop filter for my 14mm. It is a huge piece of kit for what is is. It is about 165mm square, barely fitting into my hand at full stretch. I spend a good few hours wondering up and down the river trying to find the best stop to take some practice shots. 

I stopped by the weir and though that it was perfect to show me what a 10 stop can do. So after setting up and getting my feet wet in the river, I pressed the shutter button and stood well back as not to interfere with.

This shot here was a long time around 15mins long. This gave me time to reflect on the river and the small beach I had found my self upon. 

'Beach' in the UK, I felt that it was a beach of inconvenience. Full of unruly pebbles and stones which try to upturn you and bury your face into its friends.

Trying to return for the next day was rendered impossible as work, lectures and worsening weather took its toll on, not only me, but my days out. 

The rain abated for a few days and I managed to sneak out between the brief flourishes of rain and gale like winds. This time I was on the look out for birds. Again the Caldew beckoned me to its muddy and slippy shores. The temptation this time was for Waxwings, having had them spotted in that direction. 

I mentioned this to a fellow birder in passing and he suggested that we take a look. The essentials, (basically a pair of binoculars each), grabbed and stuffed into rucksacks we started once more down the Caldew. 

Unofrtunatly for both of us the heavens had decided that we would not see anything that day, as the winds and rain had kept all but the most fool hard of creatures in the dry. So we were the fool hardy creatures along with a few cyclists, whom offered us valuable information on Otters and Kingfishers. Having told us that he had heard, 'A duck quack. while I was eating my pie. Out the corner of my eye saw it disappear.' We were not a lucky as that otter in finding something to see and then eat. Giving up the search of the Waxwings we walked back in the ever depressing rain.

About me

Birds travel freely, where ever their hearts desire. Most possibly the reason why I like to watch them. Being such a keen ornithologist at such a young age gave me a love for not only them but trying to find them. With finding birds comes a love for traveling to other places. I have, due to my adoration of birds, traveled to a wide variety of places around the world. International travel has given me; a white, 22 year old and middle class Englishman, more of an emotional journey that I ever planed. 


Since I was 13 and left at boarding school I have always found my own way in life, although with the sporadic knock to send me spinning off. However, I have felt more independent because of it and this sometimes makes me feel estranged from other people. Travel is something everybody does, to work, to the supermarket, to see birds and a whole manner of other things. If it links people together it is something worth writing about.