Chiang mai

            The hot black tarmac shimmered in the heat haze.

            The sweat dripping slowly down the faces of the competitors.

            The sun beating down on man and machine while then engine drone as they tick over. The riders fix their eyes on the lights, waiting for them to flip to green. All lined up perfectly on the white line, eager to get of the line first.

            The sound in the air is full of RPM.

A sudden bang of a back firing engine rings through the air. The bright sun glaring in the eyes of all of the riders, making it difficult to see the lights overhead. The lights flip from red to green. Hands move of breaks, feet tuck into bikes and engines roar into life as accelerators are twisted. The sound to such a crescendo, dulled slightly by the helmet, giving the illusion of starting a race.

Pulling gently away from a junction I though about having had three weeks in the jungle a week or so in town is a welcome relief.

National parks in Thailand are different than in the UK, they seem to be much more appreciated. The several near to my dwelling, for the week or so, are all connected but yet branched out like a strange kind of spider. I had only been on 2 rides on the back of a scooter so I was fairly confident that I could hang on. The roads are fine, easy riding. When they are slightly out of condition when they become nice and bumpy.  The ride was actually very fun even with my brain telling me that I would die. It was an adventure I wont be forgetting. Lizards and other insects seem to be thriving. Watching them scamper up and down trees and catching ants was as enjoyable as it sounds. Every now and then they would push them selves off the tree slightly and extent what I can only describe as a dewlap. This would be a beautiful yellow, which would flash exquisitely in the boring brown. The trees having no leaves meant that there were very few birds so it was more of an exploration of the park. The small river that flowed down the ravine and over the bounders creating this fantastic rapids and shallow watercourse. Usually I don’t enjoy mucking about in streams and over rocks like I did as a child. But for some reason I have had a change of heart, spending a good three quarters of an hour splashing and bouldering around. It was strange maybe I have become more open to doing activities, which I usually find aggravating and trivial. It might be the fact that I have been spending time with my cousin and his son has made me think about not being boring. I think more reflection on my time in Thailand will help me with that.

Temples become very similar after a couple of trips, however the local temple was very traditional and very still. Being so far out of a large city it made for a nice change, although the dogs which get left to their own devices seem to congregate at the temple. This can be intimidating as they can be aggressive. But after the monks shoo them away and tell you about their lives it makes you very aware about how they are treated. I mention this because the next mountain that we hurtled up to reach the top has several huge temples. Phuphing Palace is one of the famous temples in Chiang Mai, not making a stop into the palace as the views over the mountain ranges was the main reason for the trip up. Although on the trip up I spent most of it chuckling to my self as it is a particularly hilarious name.

Now a slightly touchy subject I suppose but it is strife across Thailand. The clubs. This is nothing new, nevertheless they are surrounded on the outside by beauties of the most exquisite magnificence. Although just like clubs there are good one and bad one. This is generally reflected in the women outside the clubs. I mean there also is the area that you are in which can give you a clue to what kind of “classy joint” you are going to. There is of course the obvious beer girls at most bars along with the hostess, All with the attraction of them selves serving you your beer. I have to say it is fantastic to have a beer in these pubs as you sit down to enjoy nice conversation and beautiful live music. It is so very easy to get through 4 or five large beers, simply as these women see that your glass is nearly empty and come and refill it, so you loose track of how much you actually drink. Which is fantastic. Just because the hours’ drift by in a haze of music and drink.

Back to the clubs, the clubs have seating areas out side for these stunning women to sit in their miniscule dresses, all in aid of attracting rich westerners or even the odd Japanese business group. Spending many a night sitting opposite these establishments eating fantastically cooked local food, having a good laugh trying to spot their next victim. Is a brilliant way to while away an evening. Although this activity is vey harsh, it can easily become fun if the beer girls continuity supply you with your beverages. Then of course there are the lady-boys, I am not scoffing at people life styles here I want to make that very clear. They often fool a lot of people, yes this includes women and they are sometimes even more beautiful than the real women of the town. These women I suppose would be like the men in drag here except this is another level. Hair, make up, bra, shaved legs, skinny, high voice and tiny dress showing off some times more than you want to see. Yes I did see a tiny bit of male private parts once, on what I thought was a woman.

It is easy to get confused in Thailand, but it is such a nice place I don’t think anywhere could really beat it. I was welcomed like part of the family in most occasions. I have to say I will be defiantly traveling back there at some stage. I cant wait it’s an adventure each time you go out side your front door.

Elephants

            Elephants should never have to have fake legs. In fact that goes for every animals, except for humans who try to kill one another when two leaders of the countries decide they don’t really like each other. We just bring it on our selves really. Here, at the World’s First Elephant Hospital, this unfortunate and sad truth is very real. There have been several victims of landmine explosions two of them are here as permanent residents. Both of them have glaring injuries. Mosha was 7 months old when she was following her mother in the jungle when she stepped on a land mine in Burma. The same happened to Motala, although she was just with her mahout, whom had a licence to log in that area, when she was 38 now she is 52. These elephants both lost the bottom half’s if their right and left front legs respectively. Motala was the first elephant here to receive an emergency amputation. Both of these elephants have been given the chance to live again. It may only be with three legs. The keepers here treat them with the highest respect I have ever seen from keepers.

I am incapable of being cynical or witty about this place. It would be impertinent to do so. Everything that has been built here has been for the welfare of the elephants. There is nothing like it. It is so very peaceful. Being built midst the trees the structures seemingly fuse into the leaves but offer protection from the rain and intense heat.  I have never seen a place to be as busy as this but yet have this still serenity to it. The ants that inhabit the walls, floors and trees are as busy as the workers. The only animals, which seem to take their time doing anything, are the geckos.

One experience, which will stick with me for a long time, while at the elephant hospital, was a tiny piece of surgery. Having been called to take photographs on an ill elephant called Boonmee, I wondered over casually as I didn’t want to run far to hot. The infirmary was not far from my room so I took my time. I had taken many pictures of this elephant before while she was receiving injections, so I was not too bothered about getting anything new as I had spent several hours with her already. Reaching the infirmary I saw one of the mahouts putting on a green protective gown. I thought this was the moment I had been waiting for, seeing some operation or something equally gory. Eagerly I started to change lenses to something small so I could capture the action. This is where I probably shouldn’t have been that enthusiastic as I had clearly missed the fact there was no sheets around to block off from any prying eyes. Reflecting on the situation I really should have noticed the lack of preparation for surgery and seen the lack of surgical instruments. Taking to the vet I found out that it was not surgical operation and that she was bloated. During this convocation, which had my full concentration, I missed the hose being filled with soap and it being lubricated. This along a long with the arm of the mahout had by now been lubricated to the satisfaction of the vet. The 5 or so keepers that were surrounding Boonmee, who all looked so casual, gently rubbing her side and comforting her, her mahout was at her trunk, and two more had her tail. This is where the wave of realisation crashed onto my shore of reality. Really with out warning the mahout with the hose stood on tiptoe and inserted his arm to the elephants (I am trying not to be explicit here) rear. I am not saying that that experience was at all bad. It was just very unexpected. I would like to point out that this was done under the supervision of a vet and was necessary for the animal. Having never really watched anything like this before I was more interested in what was going on than to take any pictures.

There are very few words, which I could use to sun up this hospital but all of then are good ones. I can see no ill will here. Only unadulterated intentions and driven people. I had always felt like conservation was boring and that it was for people whom were just a little bit reckless.  However, the owner of the hospital Soraida Salwala has built it up from nothing. As her passion and determination for saving an animal. Meeting her and talking to her you can see her determination. I could easily rattle off clichés at you to show how much she has provoked me. There is really nothing that can describe her, she is formidable and all the synonyms that go with it, and probably most important of all. Soraida is kind, no need for big fancy words. My conversations with her shall be a treasured experience.